Bermuda grass has sprung in my St. Augustine grass yard. What can I do to get rid of it?
There is no selective herbicide that can be used to eliminate Bermuda grass without simultaneously eliminating St. Augustine. You may, of course, spot treat with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate, but if some of the substance wanders, it will destroy everything it touches.
Bermuda grass requires a lot of sunlight, warm temperatures, and consistent fertilizing. You may slow its development by denying it any of them. Allow the St. Augustine to grow taller than usual to shade the Bermuda grass roots. Eliminating the summer application of controlled-release fertilizer and iron may result in sickly grass and a more maintenance-intensive lawn.
If we have a really cold winter, the Bermuda grass may die. However, if it gets that cold, the St. Augustine grass will almost certainly suffer considerably more harm. None of these options are really appealing.
The only viable option is to spot treat with a herbicide, understanding that you will need to resod the area due to the issues it produces.
Glyphosate, the primary component in Roundup and other non-selective herbicides, is ineffective when plants are stressed, whether from high heat or drought. Although it may seem contradictory, the healthier the plant, the simpler it is to destroy. Glyphosate is absorbed by the leaves of a living plant and then travels to different tissues throughout the plant. It inhibits a particularly specific enzyme required by plants to produce certain proteins required for development. In a number of days, the plant turns yellow and dies. Most plants succumb to glyphosate because they employ the same enzyme. However, for difficult-to-control weeds, multiple treatments are often required.
The herbicide will flow fast through the tissues if the plant is healthy and developing. The translocation mechanism is hindered if the plant has hunkered down to resist heat and drought.
So, as you can see, attacking your Bermuda grass isn’t simple, particularly in the heat of summer.
My crape myrtle’s bark is flaking away. Is this typical?
Peeling bark is a typical feature of these trees and is not cause for alarm.
Indeed, for some gardeners, the patchwork of bright hues left behind is a bonus that adds to the tree’s attractiveness.
This “bark exfoliation” occurs once the tree has matured, and the older the tree, the more it peels. During the summer, crapes lose most of their outer skin, although it is swiftly restored.
If this isn’t your style, remove the peelings after they’re totally free of the trunk.
Over the holidays, we went to see friends, and I was drawn to the white oleander tree in their yard. I believe I have found the ideal location for one, but my spouse claims it is toxic. Is he correct, and how can I go about planting one?
This time, your spouse is completely correct. All components of the oleander, fresh or dried, are harmful to both humans and animals if consumed, including the smoke.
If you or anybody else responsible for pruning this quick growth has an allergy to a plant substance, you or they will most likely be allergic to the oleander as well. Both the leaves and the stem of the oleander contain a toxic sap that may cause rashes and blisters. You may get a patch test to see whether you’re sensitive before committing to this deadly beauty. Even if you aren’t, wearing gloves, long sleeves, and trousers until you find out is a smart idea.
Remember that many individuals have lived and worked with oleanders for decades without harm.
Having stated that… Yes, oleanders grow pretty readily here and across the state. And, certainly, the flowers are beautiful. And, absolutely, the majority of people like the aroma.
Restrict your oleander to a location away from puppies and children, both of which will put everything in their mouths. Oleanders don’t mind dirt, sun, or sea breezes. In certain cases, they will bloom all year.
However, depending on the cultivar, some might grow to 25 feet or more, so know what your plant requires.
As an aside, people interested in bees and beekeeping may find it comforting to know that oleanders do not produce nectar. Bees are drawn to their blossoms and fragrance. When scouts from a neighbouring colony find that the larder is empty, they report back to the hive. The other bees don’t bother going there to forage. As a result, you need not be concerned about poisoning your hives’ honey.
My amaryllis need to be split, and I’d want to relocate some of them. Is this a suitable time to do that, because the blossoms have faded and the leaves are turning yellow?
Remember that your plants are already stressed because to the recent heat and drought conditions, which will linger until early October.
Establishing any plant in the landscape demands greater and more constant watering. If you wait a few months, you’ll have a greater chance of success.
Paula Weatherby is a Duval County Extension Service and University of Florida/IFAS master gardener.