Creating and sustaining high-quality turfgrass requires more than just watering.
Fertilization and pesticide treatments are examples of such activities. A thick, healthy grass requires regular mowing.
methods, dethatching on occasion, and aerification, in addition to fertilization and pest control
control. Knowing when and how to use these cultural traditions can allow one to have a more successful life.
a dense, vigorous turf.
More lawn issues are caused by improper mowing than by any other management activity. Most
Lawns are cut too short, too seldom, and/or with a dull mower blade.
The grass species determines the mowing height. Kentucky bluegrass, or any combination of the two
Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue should be cut at 2.5 to 3.5 inches;
Fescue should be mowed at 2.5 to 3.5 inches, tall fescue at 3.0 to 4.0 inches, and zoysia at 3.0 to 4.0 inches.
at 1.0 in. Mowing at a lower height inhibits root growth and boosts
susceptible to harm from insects, disease, drought, and traffic. Low mowing is also an option.
It encourages weed growth. Shaded areas should be mowed 0.5 to 1.0 inch higher than the rest of the lawn.
Mowing frequency is determined by how quickly the grass grows. Some lawns may need mowing.
Twice a week in the spring and autumn, and once every two weeks in the summer. Mow
Mow regularly enough to avoid removing more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing. For
For example, if you mow at 3 inches, mow when the grass reaches 4 inches. If the grass is green
If the grass has grown too tall, boost the mowing height and gradually reduce it back to the previous height.
height after a few mowings. Mowing should be avoided during the daytime hours when temperatures exceed 90o.
while the soil is dry to avoid damaging the lawn. If you have to mow during a hot spell,
Wait until temperatures are mild in the early morning or late evening.
Mower blades must be sharp and should be sharpened four to six times per year. A
A sharp blade produces a cleaner and healthier cut, resulting in a more appealing lawn.
Reel-type mowers often provide a superior cut, particularly at lower heights, although they are more expensive.
difficult to maintain.
Most turfgrass regions do not benefit from clipping removal. However, once upon a time
Clippings, on the other hand, do not create thatch. Returning cuttings will also recycle them.
The addition of important nutrients to the soil reduces the need for fertilizer. Clippings are not permitted.
If your mower does not distribute them properly and they are not thick enough to shade the grass, they may be dangerous.
Grass underneath. Although mulching mowers are suggested, research indicates that
boost clipping breakdown just little quicker than traditional side-discharge mowers
When applied to cool-season turfgrasses. Catching clippings is a laborious and time-consuming task.
This should only be done if the clippings are going to be mulched or composted. There are few, if any, landfills.
will accept clippings and other yard waste.
Thatch is an organic covering composed of both dead and live shoots, stems, and roots.
that gather just above the soil surface. Thatch buildup is caused by either
Overfertilization, overwatering, and/or soil compaction are all examples of soil compaction. A neglected grass will never recover.
a thatch layer, while a well tended lawn will. A little bit of thatch
is advantageous because it moderates soil temperature variations and acts as a buffer on
the soil surface. Too much thatch obstructs water and air flow and diminishes
Increases disease and insect activity, as well as fertilizer and pesticide reaction. Eventually,
Roots may begin to sprout in the thatch, and since thatch does not store much water, the grass may suffer.
then becomes very susceptible to drought stress.
Dethatching machines are power rakes with blades that chop through the thatch to expose the root system.
the soil surface. Dead and living organic material is ripped away as the blades spin.
brought to the fore. Machines that cut with knives or blades are ideal for dethatching.
for their efficacy. Avoid dethatchers and machines with flexible rake-type tines.
Attach to the blade of your rotary mower. Dethatching equipment are available for hire from rental companies.
businesses, or a professional lawn care company may do dethatching. The natural
The material collected by the dethatcher must be scraped, removed, and reused as mulch or in a compost pile.
If the thatch layer is 0.5 inch or thicker, a number of passes in various directions are required.
Dethatcher instructions will be required. Several passes will result in big
a lot of trash, and the yard will appear ragged for a while. Reseeding may be necessary.
After dethatching lawns with 0.5 inch or more of thatch, this step is required. thicker thatch than
A sod cutter is the best tool for removing 1.0 inch. A sod cutter placed on the soil’s surface
The sod is readily removed in light and manageable sections. The yard must then be mowed.
reestablished. Although reestablishment is difficult, it is beneficial in the long term. Refer
Visit AY-13, “Turfgrass Renovation” for additional details.
Dethatching Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue should be done in the spring (April) or autumn.
When it is actively growing (September) and never in the summer. In contrast, zoysiagrass
Dethatching, on the other hand, should be done in the summer while it is actively developing. Fescue and tall fescue
Thatch is uncommon in perennial ryegrass.
The mechanical removal of soil cores is known as aerification. Aerification provides soil relief.
compaction, increased roots, and improved water and air circulation into the soil
Significantly enhancing turfgrass health. Aerification will also help to decrease thatch.
Aerification is especially effective in densely packed places such as sports grounds.
Trafficked places near sidewalks, as well as areas with heavy foot or pet traffic.
Aerification is most effective when the biggest tines or spoons are employed.
When 20 to 40 holes are punched per square foot, penetration is 2 to 3 inches deep.
Aerifiers with reciprocating arms are the most effective, whereas aerifiers that roll are the least effective.
Garden tractors are ineffective because they do not penetrate far enough.
Make a sufficient number of holes per square foot. The majority of aerifying equipment are accessible from rental companies.
may not punch enough holes per square foot, requiring numerous passes to obtain
the 20-40 holes/ft2. The same is often true with aerification services.
Lawn care operators offer this service. No soil is removed by practices like as slicing or spiking.
are not considered aerification.
Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue, and tall fescue aerification
When the grass is actively developing, this should be done in the autumn (September) or spring (April).
In the early to mid summer, aerify the zoysiagrass.
Rolling is not a required grass management procedure. a lot of rolling
In the spring, saturated or clay soils will create soil compaction and increase soil moisture.
The coming summer would be stressful. This is why grass professionals normally do not suggest rolling.
specialists. Rollers, on the other hand, have some utility in turf. Light rolling is efficient.
shortly after sowing to ensure proper seed-soil contact. Rolling may also provide assurance.
After sodding, there should be excellent sod-soil contact. Rolling may also be beneficial in other uncommon instances.
For example, significant mole damage or frost heave. Rolling should never be used to repair anything.
Undulations on the surface created by poor grading. Typically, water-filled rollers are provided.
from rental agencies.
Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, state of
Indiana, Purdue University, and U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating;
H. A. Wadsworth, Director, West Lafayette, IN. Issued in furtherance of the acts of May 8
and June 30, 1914.
The Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service is an equal opportunity/equal access
Corrections, ideas, and comments should be sent to [email protected].
WebWeaver Dan Weisenberger
How high should Kentucky bluegrass be mowed?
2.5 to 3 inches
In the spring and autumn, Kentucky bluegrass lawns should be mowed at a height of 2.5 to 3 inches. During the summer, set the mower blade to a height of 3 to 3.5 inches.
Is 4 inches too tall for grass?
Most mowers include a cutting height adjustment that ranges between 3.25 and 4 inches. This is optimal for your grass, although around 4 inches, you may see some “laying-over” of turf blades, which some people dislike. As a result, some individuals prefer to mow at 3 to 3.5 inches.
What happens if you don’t mow Kentucky bluegrass?
If you don’t mow it, Kentucky bluegrass may reach 3 feet in height and create fluffy, tufted blooms. Treat it like a meadow grass at the edge of a lawn, as seen above.
How tall does Kentucky bluegrass growth?
18 to 24 inches tall
The boat-shaped leaf tip of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) distinguishes it from other grasses. It spreads by rhizomes and tillers, forming a thick sod.